Warp knit twill, sharkskin and pique fabrics

ABSTRACT

Warp knit twill, sharkskin or pique fabrics having a ground fabric structure formed by one or more yarns knit in every course and every wale to provide a ground structure, and yarns alternately laid-into the ground structure in a pattern which advances coursewise as it alternates wale wise resulting in an effect which appears diagonally or obliquely to the course and wale directions throughout one or more surfaces of the fabric. Each of the laid-in yarns is substantially within a wale, and periodically makes an excursion toward or into an adjacent wale, laying in around the bases of two lap portions of yarn which terminate in that adjacent wale, the laid in yarn pulling the bases of those laps toward the wale in which the laid in yarn primarily lies, thereby periodically disrupting the uniformity of the technical back side of the warp knit fabric, and simultaneously tightening the loop which joins the two aforementioned laps thereby distorting the technical face of the warp knit fabric, to provide a pattern effect.

United States Patent 91 Patterson Dec. 2, 1975 [75] Inventor: Thomas E.Patterson, Pickens, S.C.

[73] Assignee: Deering Milliken Research Corporation, Spartanburg, S.C.

[22] Filed: Sept. 11, 1974 [21] Appl. No.: 505,037

[52] U.S. Cl 66/192; 66/195 [51] Int. Cl. D04B 21/00 [58] Field ofSearch 66/190, 192, 193, 194, 66/195, 86 R [56] References Cited UNITEDSTATES PATENTS 2,012,355 8/1935 Schonfeld 66/192 X 2,149,031 2/1939Schonfeld 66/192 X 2,149,032 2/1939 Schonfeld 66/192 X 2,153,645 4/1939Schonfeld 66/192 2,183,108 12/1939 Schonfeld.... 66/192 3,109,302 4/1959Vitek 66/193 3,552,155 1/1971 I-Iartung 66/192 3,733,859 5/1973 Wittmann66/193 FOREIGN PATENTS OR APPLICATIONS 324,028 5/1970 Sweden 142,72612/1961 U.S.S.R.

33,601 11/1964 Germany 66/192 OTHER PUBLICATIONS Mayer Pattern No.41/040, (1971 Mayer Pattern No. 51/020, (1971). Article No.TTIEI-4200/0403/03. Mayer-Sample No. 4/4368a, (1970).

ArticlezTTl-W/E, 4201/202/181, (1971). ArticlezTTI-W/E-Wl,4201/0202/171, (1971). ArticlezTTl/E-Wi, 4252/0411/01, (1968).

Mayet Sample No. 51/058, (1971).

Mayer Sample No. 41/180, (1971).

Paling, Warp Knitting Technology, 2nd Ed., 1965, London, pp. 173-175,FIG. 134].

Primary Examiner-Ronald Feldbaum Aztorney, Agent, or Firm-H. WilliamPetry; L. J. Wilburn, Jr.

[57] ABSTRACT Warp knit twill, sharkskin or pique fabrics having aground fabric structure formed by one or more yarns knit in every courseand every wale to provide a ground structure, and yarns alternatelylaid-into the ground structure in a pattern which advances coursewise asit alternates wale wise resulting in an effect which appears diagonallyor obliquely to the course and wale directions throughout one or moresurfaces of the fabric. Each of the laid-in yarns is substantiallywithin a wale, and periodically makes an excursion toward or into anadjacent wale, laying in around the bases of two lap portions of yarnwhich terminate in that adjacent wale, the laid in yarn pulling thebases of those laps toward the wale in which the laid in yarn primarilylies, thereby periodically disrupting the uniformity of the technicalback side of the warp knit fabric, and simultaneously tightening theloop which joins the two aforementioned laps thereby distorting thetechnical face of the warp knit fabric, to provide a pattern effect.

34 Claims, 21 Drawing Figures US. Patent Dec.2, 1975 Sheetlof 103,922,888

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US. Patent Dec. 2, 1975 Sheet 8 of 10 3,922,888

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Patent Dec. 2, 1975 Sheet 9 of 10 U.S. Patent Dec.2, 1975 Sheet 10 of 103,922,888

FIG.15

WARP KNIT TWILL, SI-IARKSKIN AND PIQUE FABRICS This invention relates ingeneral to simulated twill, sharkskin, and pique fabrics, and morespecifically to warp knit twill, sharkskin, and pique fabrics, includingwarp knit elastic fabrics having the surface effects of twill,sharkskin, and pique fabrics.

Known twill, sharkskin, and pique fabrics, have typically been producedby weaving yarsn to produce a pattern which extends obliquely to thewarp and weft directions which characterize woven fabrics. Morespecifically, woven twills have the appearance of diagonal lines or ribsproduced by passing the weft threads over one and under two or more warpthreads, instead of merely passing under the next one warp thread. Wovenpiques have the appearance of raised diamond or hexagonal shapedpatterns extending diagonally or obliquely to the warp and weftdirections on the surface of the fabric. Woven sharkskins are like veryfine piques having the appearance of an animal skin pattern, forexample, a diamond-like pattern extending diagonally or obliquely to thewarp and weft directions.

In contrast to woven fabrics, the structure of warp knit fabrics is morecomplicated. It is therefore not so easy to produce diagonal or obliquepatterns in warp knit fabrics as it is in woven fabrics. However, warpknit fabrics have distinct advantages over woven fabrics, including thefact that warp knit fabrics are more extensible and therefore morereadily accommodate the movements of a wearer of garments manufacturedfrom warp knit fabrics. In addition, warp knit fabrics are todaytypically made of materials which are less prone to creasing andwrinkling, and the warp knit fab- 4 ric structure itself providesimproved resistance to However, such elastic fabrics are typically madehaving uniform, flat surfaces, with visual effects usually beingprovided by use of yarns of different color, or by fabric printingtechniques.

Furthermore, while bare elastic yarns provide desirable high elasticelongations and stretch recovery, such yarns also have certainundesirable characteristics which typically must be dealt with inproducing commercially acceptable elastic fabrics. One of those problemsis that bare rubber and bare spandex yarns have an undesirably clammyfeeling when brought into contact with human skin. Another undesirablecharacteristic is that bare rubber and bare spandex yarns are difficultto dye with dyes suitable for use in coloring commonly used textileyarns. Therefore if fabrics incorporating both the common yarns and thebare rubber or spandex yarns are to be dyed after being knit, it isdesirable to cover the rubber or spandex yarns with the relativelyinelastic yarns. Similarly, it is desirable to cover bare rubber orspandex yarns with the relatively inelastic yarns in order to avoiddirect contact between the undesirably clammy rubber or spandex yarnsand worn next to the skin. There is a continuing need for warp knitelastic fabric structures wherein the desirable elasticitycharacteristics of bare rubber and spandex yarns may be used, whileminimizing yarn consumption of both elastic and inelastic yarns per unitfabric area. There is also an apparent absence of elastic fabrics havingtwill, sharkskin and pique surface effect.

BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is therefore an object of thisinvention to provide warp knit fabrics which overcome the above-noteddisadvantages of prior art fabrics. It is more specifically an object ofthis invention to provide warp knit twill, sharkskin, and pique fabrics,and particularly warp knit elastic fabrics having twill, sharkskin, andpique surface effects.

The foregoing objects and others are accomplished in accordance withthis invention by providing a ground structure formed by one or morehard or texturized, relatively inelastic yarns knit in every course andevery wale to provide a rather opaque ground structure, and alternatelylaying yarns into that ground structure in a pattern which advancescoursewise as it alternates wale wise to result in an effect whichappears diagonally or obliquely to the course and wale directionsthroughout one or more surfaces of the resultant fabric. Each of thelaid-in yarns is laid substantially within a wale, and periodicallymakes an excursion toward or into an adjacent wale, laying-in around thebases of two lap portions of yarn which terminate in that adjacent wale,the laid in yarn pulling those laps toward the wale in which the laid-inyarn primarily lies, thereby periodically disrupting the uniformity ofthe technical back side of the warp knit fabric, and simultaneouslytightening the human skin when garments made from such fabrics are loopwhich joins the two aforementioned laps thereby distorting the technicalface of the warp knit fabric, to thereby provide a pattern effect. Thelaid-in yarns may be of any desired type, including hard yarns, texturedyarns, or even relatively highly elastic yarns.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS For a better understanding of theinvention as well as other objects and further features thereof,reference is made to the following detailed disclosures of preferredembodiments of the invention taken in conjunction with the accompanyingdrawings thereof, wherein:

FIG. 1 is an about 10X photomicrograph of the technical face of a warpknit twill fabric of the present invention, and FIG. 1B is aphotomicrograph of the technical back of the same fabric.

FIG. 2 is an about 10X photomicrograph of the technical face of a warpknit sharkskin fabric of the present invention, and FIG. 2B is aphotomicrograph of the technical back of the same fabric.

FIG. 3 is an about 10X photomicrograph of the technical face of a warpknit sharkskin fabric of the present invention, and FIG. 3B is aphotomicrograph of the technical back of the same fabric.

FIG. 4 is an about 10X photomicrograph of the technical face of a piquefabric of the present invention, and FIG. 4B is a photomicrograph of thetechnicalback of the same fabric.

FIG. 5 is an about 5X photomicrograph of the technical face of a warpknit pique fabric of the present invention, and FIG. 5B is aphotomicrograph of the technical back of the same fabric.

FIG. 6 is an about 5X photomicrograph of the technical face of a warpknit pique fabric of the present invention, and FIG. 6B is aphotomicrograph of the technical back of the same fabric,

FIG. 7 is a point diagram schematically illustrating the patterns bywhich each of four yarn sets or warps are knit into a fabric ofthepresent invention.

FIG. 8 is a point diagram schematically illustrating the patterns bywhich each of four yarn sets or warps are knit into another fabric ofthe present invention.

FIG. 9 is a point diagram schematically illustrating in superimposedform, the stitch pattern by which the four yarn sets of FIG. 8 are knittogether to form a fabric according to the present invention.

FIG. 10 is an about 18X scanning electron photomicrograph ofthetechnical back of a fabric made according to the pattern illustrated inFIG. 9, said fabric being extended in both the course and waledirections.

FIG. 11 is an about 18X scanning electron photomicrograph of thetechnical face of a fabric knit according to the pattern illustrated inFIG. 9, said fabric being extended in both the course and waledirections.

FIG. 12 is a point diagram schematically illustrating in superimposedform, the stitch patterns by which the four yarn sets of FIG. 7 are knittogether to form a fabric according to the present invention.

FIG. 13-is a point diagram schematically illustrating is superimposedform, another stitch pattern by which the four yarn sets of FIG. 7 areknit together to form another fabric according to the present invention.

FIG. 14 is a point diagram schematically illustrating in superimposedform, another stitch pattern by which the four yarn sets of FIG. 8 areknit together to form another fabric according to the present invention.

FIG. 15 is a point diagram schematically illustrating in superimposedform still another stitch pattern by which, the four yarnsets of FIG. 8are knit together to form still another fabric accordingto the presentinvention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The warp knit twill,sharkskin, and pique fabrics of the present invention are madebyknitting one or more yarns into a rather opaque ground structure, andalternately laying threads into that ground structure in patterns whichsequentially or periodically distort the technical back and/or technicalface of the fabric to provide an effect which appears diagonally orobliquely to the course and wale directions throughout one or both facesof the fabric. The ground structure is typically .knit in every courseand every wale, and is typically formed of one or more hard or textured,relatively inelastic yarns. The yarns which are laid into the groundstructure are typically laid-in in a pattern which alternates walewiseand which advances course-wise so that the surface effects which resultfrom the laid-in yarn appear diagonally or obliquely to the course andwale directions.

One preferred way of making the warp knit twill and sharkskin fabrics ofthe present invention is to knit one or more types of yarns togetherusing the stitch pattern Bar 1: 2-0, 2-4

Bar 2: 2-4, 2-0

Bar 3: 4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 0-0

Bar 4: 4-4, 0-0, 4-4, 2-2

said stitch pattern being given in Raschel designations.

Those skilled in the art will appreciate that such a stitch pattern, orcombination of bar movement patterns, conventionally define thecoordinated movements by whichthe guide bars feed yarns to the knittingneedles during knitting, and such a stitch pattern also defines the wayin which the yarns lie in relationship to each other in the resultantfabric. Typically, two sets of yarns, usually of the same type, are knitaccording to the Bar 1 and Bar 2 patterns, to form a substantiallyuniform ground fabric structure, which absent the sets of yarnslaid-in'by Bars 3 and 4, would not itself illustrate any extraordinarysurface effect. Other yarns, which may be the same type as the yarnsused in the ground structure, or different, are laid-into the groundstructure according to the Bar 3 and Bar 4 patterns. The foregoingpatterns for Bars 1, 2, 3, and 4, are schematically illustrated in pointdiagram notation in FIG. 7.

, In the present invention, the ground structure is typically formed ofone or more yarn sets or warps which knit stitch loops in every courseand every wale. In the stitch pattern illustrated in FIG. 7, the groundfabric is formed from two warps or sets of yarns, one yarn of each ofthe two warps knitting in every course and every wale. In actualpractice this would be done by fully threading Bar 1 and Bar 2 acrossthe appropriate desired fabric width on a warp knitting machine, forexample a tricot or a Raschel machine, and knitting those fully threadedbars, using the stitch pattern, or bar movement patterns, disclosedabove and shown in FIG. 7. Such warp knitting machines are typicallyprovided with appropriate pattern chains or cams to operate the guidebars in accordance with a desired stitch pattern. While the groundstructure is thus formed with two full warps of yarns, the yarns whichare laid-in according to the Bar 3 and Bar 4 patterns illustrated inFIG. 7, are

laid-in using two complementary warps, each threaded one-in, one-out,one of which isplaced in the fabric by the Bar 3 pattern, and the otherof which is placed in the fabric by the Bar 4 pattern. The total numberof ends of laid-in yarns may therefore be approximately equal to thetotal number of ends in one of the two full warps which are knittogether by the patterns of Bar 1 and Bar 2 to form the ground fabricstructure.

The most common way to alternate the respective yarns of twocomplementary'warps, as typically used for placing the inlaid Bar 3 andBar 4 yarns in a fabric, is to prepare one warp for Bar 3, single endsof which are threaded one-in, one-out through alternate guides of athird bar of a warp knitting machine across the desired fabric width,and prepare another complementary warp from which single ends arethreaded one-in, oneout, through alternate guides of a fourth guide barof the warp knitting machine. However, there are other ways ofalternating the yarns of the two complementary warps to still place afull complement of inlaid yarns in the fabric while still achieving thedesired surface effects of the present invention. For example, the yarnsof each of Bar 3 and Bar 4 could be placed in the fabric by threadingthose bars on the machine two-in, twoout, respectively, or 'three-in,three-out, respectively. Furthermore, the Bar 3 and Bar 4 warps may bedifferently threaded, but still complementary. For example, the warp fedto Bar 3 of the knitting machine may be threaded two-in, one-out,through the guides of the third guide bar across the desired fabricwidth, and the complementary fourth guide bar warp threaded twoout,one-in, through the guides of the fourth guide bar. While suchvariations in how the alternating laid-in threads are placed in thefabric will make some variamay vary the angle at which the dominantlines of the pattern intersect the wale and course lines of the warpknit fabric, the principles by which the surface effects are created insuch warp knit fabrics are basically the same. In further variations ofthe present invention, the total number of laid-in yarns need notcomprise a full warp. In this way, ground fabrics having stripes oftwill, sharkskin or pique surface effects throughout their length, maybe produced.

Two of the aforementioned ways of alternating the laid-in yarns infabrics using the stitch patterns illustrated in FIG. 7, are shown inFIGS. 12 and 13. In FIG. 12, the Bar 3 and Bar 4 yarns are alternatedone-in, one-out, and in the FIG. 13 combination, the Bar 3 and Bar 4yarns are alternated two-in, two-out. The results of making changes suchas those illustrated by the combinations of FIGS. 12 and 13, may bevisually appreciated by comparing FIGS. 1 and 2, which show fabricswhich are made using the combination in FIG. 12, with the fabric of FIG.3, which shows a fabric manufactured using the combination of FIG. 13.FIG. 1 shows a warp knit twill fabric of the present invention, and FIG.2 shows a warp knit fabric of the present invention which is more akinto a sharkskin fabric, produced using the same yarns and stitch patternused in making the fabric shown in FIG. 1; however, the length'of yarnfed from one of the warps which forms the ground fabric was reduced,thereby altering the appearance of the surface effect. This illustratesanother way in which the basic principles of the present invention maybe used to create a somewhat different surface effect. FIG. 3 shows afabric which exhibits an even more accentuated sharkskin effect producedby the stitch pattern illustrated in FIG. 13.

A preferred way of making the warp knit pique fabrics of the presentinvention is to knit one or more types of yarns together using thestitch pattern Bar 1: 2-0, 2-4

Bar 2: 2-4, 2-0

Bar 3: 4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 0-0

Bar 4: 4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 0-0, 4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 2-2 said stitch pattern beinggiven in Raschel designations. As in the previously described fabrics ofthe present invention, one or more yarns may be knit, usually in everycourse and every wale to form a ground fabric structure and in thefabric defined by this stitch pattern, or combination of bar movementpatterns, two warps or sets of yarns are knit together, one by thepattern of Bar 1, and another by the pattern of Bar 2, to form asubstantially uniform ground fabric structure. Again, two complementarypartial warps of yarn are laid into the fabric by the patterns of Bar 3and Bar 4, and it is the laid-in yarns which create surface effects inthe resultant fabric. FIG. 8 schematically illustrates the foregoingpattern of Bars 1, 2, 3, and 4 in point diagram notation.

The points diagrams of FIG. 8 are also helpful in illustrating thepresent invention, in that it can be seen that the yarns which are laidinto the structure by the patterns of Bar 3 and Bar 4 are generally laidinto a single wale, for example the wales labelled A in FIG. 8, andthose laid-in yarns only periodically make an excursion toward or intoan adjacent wale labelled B in FIG. 8. Now that this principle has beenpointed out in FIG. 8, it is also clear that yarns laid into fabrics inaccordance with the patterns of Bar 3 and Bar 4 of FIG. 7, also lieprimarily in one wale, labelled A in FIG. 7, and periodically make anexcursion toward or into the adjacent wale labelled B in FIG. 7. Aspreviously mentioned, the alternating laid-in yarns appear to advancecoursewide as they advance wale-wise to provide the surface effects ofthe present invention. The wale-wise alternation has previously beenexplained. The course-wise advance of the pattern of the alternate laidin yarns, may best be explained by following in successive wales thecourse-wise advance of those portions of the laid-in yarns which make anexcursion out of the wale in which a particular yarn is primarilylaid-in, toward or into the adjacent wale. This is illustrated, forexample, in FIG. 7 where it is seen that the Bar 4 yarn first makes anexcursion into wale B on course II, and then the Bar 3 yarn makes anexcursion into its adjacent wale B in course IV. Returning then to Bar 4yarn, it next makes an excursion into its adjacent wale B in course VI,and then the Bar 3 yarn makes an excursion into its adjacent wale Bfinally in course VIII. It will be appreciated that when the yarns arelaid-in according to the patterns of FIG. 8, that the Bar 4 yarn firstmakes an excursion into adjacent wale B on course IV, while the Bar 3yarn first makes an excursion into its adjacent wale B in course VIII.

A simple combination of the patterns of FIG. 8, is shown in FIG. 9 wheretwo full warps of yarns are schematically illustrated as being knittedaccording to each of the Bar 1 and Bar 2 pattems,respectively, and twocomplementary half warps, alternately threaded onein, one-out, areschematically illustrated laid-into the aformentioned ground structureaccording to the Bar 3 and Bar 4 patterns. The patterns schematicallyillustrated in FIG. 9 illustrated even more fully the coursewiseprogression of the periodic excursions in the laid in yarns, and whythose combinations of laid-in yarns produce diagonal or oblique surfaceeffects in the fabrics of the present invention. For example, observethe excursions of the laid-in yarns as one moves from the yarnslaid-into wale C to the yarn laid-into wale D to the yarn laid-into waleE, and eventually to the yarn laid-into wale F. Accompanying that walewise progression, it is seen that the excursion in the laid-in yarnsoccurs in courses IV, VIII, XII, and XVI, respectively, and that thoseexcursions of the laid-in yarns lie on a line X, which is oblique toboth the wale and course directions of the fabric.

The way in which the surface effects caused by the excursions of thelaid-in yarns, is photomicrographically shown in FIGS. 10 and l l, whichare respectively about 18X scanning electron photomicrographs of thetechnical back and technical face of a fabric made according to thepattern shown schematically in FIG. 9 the fabric having beenphotomicrographed when extended in both the course and wale directions.

Since the course-wise progression of the excursions of the laid-in yarnsis advanced the same number of courses between excursions in each of thetwo laid-in yarns, it does not matter at which side edge of the fabricone starts in locating such an oblique line on a diagram such as FIG. 9.For example, one can just as easily locate such an oblique line byconsidering the excursions of the yarns which are primarily laid-inwales G, F, E, and D, respectively, which lie on a substantiallystraight line Y, which is likewise oblique to both the wale and coursedirections in the fabric of FIG. 9. However, so long as the number ofcourses between excursions in the two laid-in sets of yarns is the same,and as long as the excursions occur on different courses in the yarns ofthe two different laid-in warps, it does not matter how many courses theindividual excursions of the laid in yarns of one warp are offset fromthe excursions of the yarns of the other laid-in warp, since any suchoffsetting will produce the desired oblique surface effects in thefabrics of the present invention.

One way in which the excursions of the laid in yarns manifest themselvesin the fabric of the present invention, is that in making an excursiontoward or into the wale adjacent to the wale in which a laid in yarnprimarily lies, the laid-in yarn loops or passes about the base of twolap portions of one of the ground fabric yarns, and tends to pull thebases of those lap portions, which otherwise extend in directions awayfrom the excursion of their associated laid-in yarn, toward the wale inwhich that laid-in yarn primarily lies, giving the appearance that thosetwo laps actually extend across approximately two wales. This is shown,for example, in FIG. where the path of laid in yarns K, L, M, and N havebeen superimposed upon the photomicrograph, and at each of theexcursions of these yarns, which tend to pull the base of laps whichterminate in the adjacent wale back toward the wale in which the laid-inyarn primarily lies, those distended laps have been labelled 20. It isreadily seen that those laps apparently terminate somewhere between thewale in which the laid-in yarn which is pulling those laps primarilylies, and the adjacent wales' toward which the excursion of the laid inyarn took place. Using as a point of reference the point at which thebases of the distended laps seem to disappear between the wales, it canbe seen that the effect caused by the excursions of the laid in yarnsprogresses wale-wise throughout the fabric along oblique linesrepresented by lines X and Y. Since point diagrams are usually drawn asif looking down upon the technical back of the fabric, the apparentpaths of the laid-in yarns shown in FIG. 9 and FIG. 10 are similar.

FIG. 1 1 then shows the paths of the laid-in yarns superimposed upon aphotomicrograph of the technical face of a fabric of the presentinvention, the same fabric whose technical back was shown in FIG. 10,and whose stitch pattern is shown in FIG. 9. The paths of the laid-inyarns have been labelled K, L and M, substantially corresponding to thedesignations used in FIG. 10. Of course in this face view of the fabric,the excursions of the laid-in yarns take place toward the opposite edgeof the fabric. In the face view of FIG. 11 the lap portions of one ofthe ground yarns, which are distended towards each of the wales in whichthe laid in yarns primarily lie, are visible, but that portion of thoselaps which extends behind a wale and away from the excursion of theirassociated laid-in yarn, have been superimposed on the photomicrographof FIG. 11, and labelled with the numeral 20. FIG. 11 also shows thatthe stitch loops 21, which connect the laps 20 which are distended onthe technical back of the fabrics of the present invention, aredistended on the technical face of the fabric so that each of the stitchloops 21 connecting correspondingly distended laps 20, is canted moreobliquely to the wale line than the other loops in that wale line. Theseextraordinarily canted loops form a wale-wise progression on the face ofthe fabric, those canted loops lying on a line which is also oblique toboth the wale and course directions of the fabrics of the presentinvention, as indicated by lines X" and Y. As thus shown on the face ofthe fabric in FIG. 11, and as shown on the technical back of the fabricin FIG. 10, it isclear that the advantageous twill, sharkskin, or piquepatterns in the warp knit fabrics of the present invention may occur oneither the technical face or the technical back of the fabrics, andeither side may be used as the desired effect surface, depending uponthe application by the user.

Just as FIGS. 12 and 13 illustrated two combinations in which thepattern of FIG. 7 may be used in fabrics of the present invention, FIGS.14 and 15, in addition to FIG. 9 illustrate various combinations inwhich the pattern of FIG. 8 may be used to produce fabrics according tothe present invention. In FIG. 14, the yarns laidinto the fabricaccording to the Bar 3 and Bar 4 patterns of FIG. 8, occur in a two-in,two-out alternation. The FIG. 15 pattern schematically illustrates afabric wherein the laid-in yarns are placed in the fabric in alternationin three-in; three-out, sequences, respectively.

All of the foregoing makes it clear than the two sets of laid-in yarnsof the present invention have stitch patterns wherein each laid-in yarnis primarily laid into one wale, and makes periodic excursions into anadjacent wale. The number of courses between the periodic excursions ineach of the two sets of laid-in yarns is the same, but those excursionsdo not occur in the same course in both sets of laid-in yarns. The onlyfurther requirement to produce the advantageoustwill, sharkskin, orpique effects of the present invention is that the length of the yarnlaid-into each wale be short enough so that when the laid in yarn makesan excursion into or toward an adjacent wale, and when the fabric comesoff the machine, the laps of the ground yarn around which the laid inyarn passed as it made the excursion into or toward the adjacent wale,are distended from their normal termination in the adjacent wale toanapparent termination closer to the wale in which the laid-in yarnprimarily lies. It will also be appreciated that to effectively achievethese results, the excursions of the laid-in yarn should be coordinatedwith the ground fabric structure in such a way that the excursion orextended portion of the laid-in yarn passes around the base of lapswhich themselves otherwise extend in the opposite direction from thewale in which their associated laid-in yarn primarily lies.

Accompanying the distention of the pair of laps about which the laid-inyam made the excursion, is the corresponding distortion or canting ofthe stitch loop which joins those two laps in the technical face of thefabric. I

The types of yarns which may be used in the present invention mayinclude any textile yarns capable of being knitted on a warp knittingmachine a needle bar and a plurality of, usually at least three or four,guide bars. Since in the preferred fabrics of the present invention, thelaid-in yarns, are almost entirely hidden or sandwiched within the walesof the fabrics, even yarns which have undesirable characteristicsinsofar as external appearance or effect is concerned, may be used asthe laid-in yarn. For example, bare rubber of spandex elastic yarns havean undesirable clammy feeling when contacted by human skin, andtypically give an undesirable grin-through in fabrics because such yarnsare difficult to dye with dyes suitable for use in coloring more commontextile yarns. But such yarns may be effectively covered when used asthe laid-in yarns in the present invention. It is therefore clear thatit is the ground fabric yarns which are exposed in the fabrics of thepresent invention, and'which will provide those fabrics with desiredesthetics such as hand and color; Similarly, it is the ground yarns, oneof which is knit in every 9 course and every wale of the fabric, whichwill limit the extensibility of the fabrics of the present invention.But where relatively elastic yarns are used as the laid-in yarns, theyprovide good elastic elongation and stretch recovery to the inventivefabrics. In that regard it should be noted that a particularly preferredembodiment of the present invention is one wherein hard, or texturedyarns are used in the ground fabric, and highly elastic yarns, such asspandex, are laid-into such a ground fabric. in such combinations, thepresent invention provides highly desirable elastic warp knit twill,sharkskin, or pique fabrics.

Accordingly, yarns suitable for use as the ground structure yarns in thepresent invention, include any of the well known relatively inelasticyarns, such as nylon, polyester, acetate rayon, or other yarns, ineither rigid or textured form, and may include any natural yarns such ascotton or silk. Similarly, any of the foregoing yarns may be used as thelaid-in yarns in the present invention. Furthermore, relatively elasticyarns such natural or synthetic rubber yarns, or any of the spandexyarns, such as DuPonts Lycra, may be laid-in to provide elastic warpknit fabrics according to the present invention. The relatively elasticyarn in the present invention is usually used in its bare condition,without covering such as a spiral winding. The word yarn" is used hereinin the generic sense to include any sort of elongate flexible memberwhich may be knit on a warp knitting machine, and may include threads,filaments, strands, or yarns, whether they be monofilament,multifilament, continuous filament, or comprise spun shorter fibers. Itwill of course be appreciated that the foregoing yarns are onlyrepresentative of those useful in the present invention, and are in noway intended to limit the scope of application of the principles of thepresent invention.

During knitting of the fabrics of the present invention, the length ofeach set of yarns fed to the knitting machine (i.e., the runner lengthof each warp) need only be sufficient to accommodate the movements ofthe knitting elements of the machine without breaking yarn or breakingknitting elements. However, as mentioned earlier herein, the runnerlength of the laid-in yarns should be sufficiently short to cause theexcursion portions of the laid-in yarns to pull the base of the laps ofground fabric yarn which the excursion loop around, out of their usualwale of termination and toward the wale in which the laid in yarncontaining the excursion primarily lies, thereby also distending thestitch loop which connects those laps. Any combination of runner lengthsand resultant tensions which provides the desired result may be used.After the fabric is removed from the knitting machine, it may be dyedand finished by any means'which the user may desire.

One of the primary advantages of fabrics of the present invention isthat while the inlaid yarns are typically never pulled into a stitchloop or knitted into any course of the fabric, they are virtually neverexposed on either surface of the cloth, so that they cannot be easilysnagged, picked, or otherwise pulled out of the fabric. They thereforeprovide the warp knit surface effect fabrics of the present inventionanother advantage over woven fabrics, since the yarns which cause thedesired twill, sharkskin, and pique surface effects in the warp knitfabrics of the present invention, cannot be snagged, picked pulled orrun out of the fabric as is possible in the former woven fabrics.

10 The following examples are intended to illustrate various preferredembodiments of the present invention.

EXAMPLE I A warp knit twill fabric is made by fully threading Bar 1 andBar 2 of a Mayer 64 guage Raschel knitting machine with l322 ends of 40denier l3 filament DuPont Antron nylon and threading the third andfourth bars one-in, one-out, each with 661 ends of I40 deneier Du- PontT-l27 Lycra spandex, and knitting those yarns together in the stitchpattern: Bar 1: 2-0, 2-4; Bar 2: 2-4, 2-0; Bar 3: 4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 0-0;and Bar 4: 4-4, 0-0, 4-4, 2-2. The Bar 1 runner length is about 55inches per rack; Bar 2 runner length about 51 inches per rack; and Bars3 and 4 each have runner lengths of about 5% inches per rack; the Lycrayarns being extended about I04 percent as warped on the beam. The fabricis knit at about 60 stitches per inch on the machine. The resultantfabric is an opaque, warp knit elastic twill fabric having a twillsurface effect as shown in FIGS. 1 and 1B, wherein the relatively elaticyarns are substantially covered by the ground yarns. In this fabric, asin the other fabrics of the present invention, either the technical backside, or the technical face side of the fabriic may be used as thedesired exterior effect surface.

While the greige fabric embodies the present invention, after knittingthe fabric may be finished by any desired technique, specific finishingtechniques not being a part of the claimed invention. For example, thegreige fabric taken from the knitting machine may then be run into ascray to relax the dry fabric. The fabric may then be removed from thescray and run through a wash box containing water at about 200F with asmall amount of detergent therein. The tension settings are set to runthe fabric through the wash box in a relaxed condition. The fabric maybe taken from the wash box and framed on a small tenterette, with,overfeeds and tension controls set to wind the fabric onto a Burlingtonbeam in a relaxed condition. The fabric may be Burlington beam machinedyed under atmospheric pressure, by steps which may include chemicallyscouring, rinsing, dying, heat fixation of the dye, and further rinsing.The fabric may then be extracted on a beam extractor, and heat set at adesired wale and course count.

EXAMPLE II A warp knit sharkskin fabric is produced using a machine setup as described in Example I, except that in producing this fabric theBar 2 runner length is about 48% inches per rack. The resultant fabricis a warp knit elastic sharkskin fabric having surface effects as shownin FIGS. 2 and 2B.

EXAMPLE iii A warp knit sharkskin fabric is produced using a setup quitesimilar to that described in Example I, ex-

cept that the Bar 2 runner length is about 51% inches per rack, andinstead of being threaded one-in, oneout, in each of Bars 3 and 4, theLycra yarns are threaded two-in, two-out, in each of guide bars 3 and 4.The resultant fabric is a warp knit elastic sharkskin fabric having thesurface effects shown in FIG. 3 and 3B.

EXAMPLE iv A warp knit pique fabric is produced by fully threading thefirst and second bars of a Mayer 64 guage Raschel knitting machine withI322 ends of 40 denier l3 filament R-25 DuPont Antron nylon. Bars 3 and4 were each threaded'one-in, one-out, with 661 ends of l40 denier DuPontT-l 27 Lycra spandex yarns. These yarns were knit according to thestitch pattern: Bar 1: 2-0, 2-4, Bar 2: 2-4, 2-0, Bar 3: 4-4, 2-2, 4-4,2-2, 4-4, 2-2, 4-4, -0; and Bar 4: 4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 0-0, 4-4, 2-2,4-4,2-2. The runnerlength of Bar 1 is about 52 /2 inches per rack; Bar 2about 44 inches per rack; and Bars 3 and 4 each about 6.2 inches perrack, the Lycra .yarns being extended about l04percent as warped on 'thebeam. The fabric was knit at about 80 stitches per inch on the machine.The resultant fabric is a warp knit elastic pique fabric having thesurface effects shown in FIG. 4 and 4B, and the knit structure of thefabric is shown in more detail in FIGS. and 11.

EXAMPLE V A warp knit pique fabric is produced using a machine setup asdescribed in Example IV, except that ,the Lycra yarns in Bars 3 and 4instead of being threaded one-infone-out, .are threaded two-in, two-out,in each of Bars 3 and 4. The resultant fabric is awarp knit elasticpique fabric having surface effects shown in FIG. 5 and 5B.

EXAMPLE VI A warp knit pique fabric is produced using-a machine setup asdescribed in Example IV, except that the Lycra yarns in Bars 3 and 4instead of being threaded one-in, one-out, are threaded three-in,three-out, in each of Bars 3 and 4. The resultant fabricis a warpknitelastic pique fabric having surface effects as shown in FIG. 6v and 68.I

Although specific components, proportions, and arrangements of elementshave been stated in the-above description of preferred embodiments ofthis invention, other equivalent components and arrangements of elementsmay be used with satisfactory results and various .degrees ofquality,.or.other modifications may be made herein to enhance theinvention to thereby increase its utility. For example,.the groundfabric may comprise a single bar fabric, or may be knit using openstitch loops in=any or all courses and wales. Also, the patterns statedherein have been-given in Raschel designations, but those skilled in theart canreadily translate those patterns into tricot designations. Itwill be understood that such changes of details, materials, arrangementsof parts, and uses of the invention described and illustrated herein,are intended to be included within the principles and scope of theclaimed invention. Any greige or finished fabric meeting the limitationsof the appended claims is intended to be within the scopeof the presentinvention.

What is claimed is:

1. A warp knit fabric comprising a first set of yarns forming a knitground structure containing stitch loops in every course and-wale, andsecond and third sets of yams laid into the ground structure; eachrespective yarns of said second-set primarily lying in one respectivewale of the ground structure and periodically extending'towardan.adjacent wale, passing around -at least two lap portions of one oftheyarns of the ground structur'e,.which lap portions otherwise extendin directions away fromthe portion of the yarn of the second set whichextends toward the adjacent wale, and displacing th'os laps toward thewale in Ewhich the yarn of saidJsecond set is primarily lying; eachrespective yarh of said third set primarily lying in a respective waleof the ground structure andperiodically extending toward an adjacentwale-,..'passing around at least two lap portions of one of the yarns ofthe ground structure, which lap portionsotherwise extend in directionsaway from the portion of the yarn of the third set which extends towardthe adjacent wale, and displacing those laps toward the wale in whichthe yarn of said third set is primarily lying; the yarns of the secondand third sets making all their periodic extensions in the samedirection, but with the yarns of the third set making their periodicextensions in different courses from the courses in which the yarns ofthe second set make their periodic extensions; said second and thirdsets of yarns being substantially covered by the yarns of the groundstructure, and said fabric having a surface effect on at least one facethereof which appears to extend along line oblique to the course andwale directions in the fabric.

2. The warp knit fabric of claim 1, wherein the stitch loops of yarn onthe technical face of the fabric which join the two laps which aredisplaced by each of the extending portions of the laid-in yarns, aremore oblique with respect to the directions of the wales than the otherstitch loops which comprise said wales.

3. The warp knit fabric of claim 1, wherein the yarns of said second setare primarily laid into different wales fromthe wales in which the yarnsof said third set are primarily laid-in.

4, The warp knit fabric of claim 2, wherein a surface effect whichappears to extend generally along lines oblique to the course and waledirections in said fabric appears on both faces of the fabric. I

5. The warp knit fabric of claim 1, wherein the yarns of said second andthird sets alternate across the course-wise width of the fabric in suchaway that at least one yarn of said second set alternates across the.width of the fabric with at least one yarn of said third set.

6. The warp knit fabric of claim 1, wherein the yarns of said second andthird sets alternate across the course-wise width of the fabric in sucha way that more than one yarn of said second set alternates across thewidth of the fabric with more than one yarn of said third set. V

. 7. T he warp. knit fabric of claim 1, wherein the ground structureadditionally comprises another set of yarns, which knit is every courseon every wale in said ground structure.

8. The warp knit fabric of claim 1, wherein the laid-in yarns of saidsecond and third sets comprise relatively elastic yarns, and said fabricis elastic.

9. The warp knit fabric of claim 8, wherein said relatively elasticyarns comprise spandex yarns.

10. The warpknit fabric of claim 7, wherein in said ground structurecomprises said first set of yarns knit in the fabric in thepattern: 2-0,2-4, and said another set of y'arns knit in the fabric in the pattern:2-4, 2 -0, said patterns being given in Raschel designations.

1 1. Thewarpknit fabric of claim 6, wherein the yarns of said second setof yarns are laid-into the fabric in the pattern: 4:4, 2-2, 4-4, 0-0,and the yarns of said third setare laid-into thefabric in the pattern:4-4, 0-0, 4-4, 2-2,'said patterns being given in Raschel. designations.12. The warp knit fabric of claim 6, wherein the yarns of said secondset of yarns are laid-into the fabric in the pattern: 4-4, 2:2, 4-4,2-2, 4- 4,.2-'2, 4-4, 0-0, and the yarns of said third set are laid-intothe fabric in the pattemi4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 0-0, 4-4,- 2- 2, 4-4, .2-2, saidpatterns being given in Raschel designations. I

13. The warp knit fabric of claim 10, wherein the yarns of said secondand third sets alternate across the coursewise width of the fabric insuch a way that at least one yarn of said second set alternates acrossthe width of the fabric with at least one yarn of said third set, andthe yarns of said second set of yarns are laidinto the fabric in thepattern: 4-4, 2-2, 4-4, -0, and the yarns of said third set arelaid-into the fabric in the pattern: 4-4, 0-0, 4-4, 2-2, said patternsbeing given in Raschel designations. i

14. The warp knit fabric of claim 10, wherein the yarns of said secondand third sets alternate across the coursewise width of the fabric insuch a way that at least one yarn of said second set alternates acrossthe width of the fabric with at least one yarn of said third set, andthe yarns of said second set of yarns are laidinto the fabric in thepattern: 4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 0-0, and the yarns of saidthird set are laid-into the fabric in the pattern 4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 0-0,4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 2-2, said patterns being given in Raschel designations.

15. A method of manufacturing a warp knitted fabric, comprising thesteps of:

1. fully threading a front guide bar of a warp knitting machine acrossan approximate desired fabric width with a first plurality of yarns;

2. fully threading a second guide bar of said warp knitting machineacross said approximate desired fabric width with a second plurality ofyarns;

3. partially threading a third guide bar of said warp knitting machinealternately across said approximate desired fabric width with a thirdplurality of yarns;

4. partially threading a fourth guide bar of said warp knitting machineacross said approximate desired fabric width alternately in anarrangement complementary to the arrangement of yarns threaded throughsaid third guide bar; and

5. operating said warp knitting machine, said guide bars feeding yarnsto the needle bar of said machine according to the combination of barmovement patterns: front bar: 2-0, 2-4 second bar: 2-4, 2-0 third bar:4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 0-0 fourth bar: 4-4, 0-0, 4-4, 2-2

said patterns being given in Raschel designations.

16. The method of claim 15, wherein said third and fourth guide bars arethreaded with yarns comprising bare relatively elastic yarns.

17. The method of claim 15, wherein each yarn of said third and fourthpluralities is laid-into primarily one wale of the resultant fabric, andthe length of each of said third and fourth pluralities of yarns fed tothe needle bar is sufficiently short so that as the fabric ismanufactured portions of each one of said yarns of said third and fourthpluralities extend toward a wale adjacent to the wale in which said oneyarn primarily lies, each said portion passing around two lap portionsof a yarn from said first plurality of yarns, displacing those lapportions toward the wale in which said one yarn primarily lies.

18. A method of manufacturing a warp knitted fabric, comprising thesteps of:

1. fully threading a front guide bar of a warp knitting machine acrossan approximate desired fabric width with a first plurality of yarns;

2. fully threading a second guide bar of said warp knitting machineacross said approximate desired fabric width with a second plurality ofyarns;

3. partially threading a third guide bar of said warp knitting machinealternately across said approximate desired fabric width with a thirdplurality of yarns;

, 4. partially threading a fourth guide bar of said warp knittingmachine across said approximate desired fabric width alternately in anarrangement complementa ry to the arrangement of yarns threaded throughsaid third guide bar; and

5. operating said warp knitting machine, said guide bars feeding yarnsto the needle bar of said machine according to the combination of barmovement patterns: front bar: 2-0, 2-4 second bar: 2-4, 2-0 third bar:4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 0-0, fourth bar: 4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 0-0,4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 2-2,

said patterns being given in Raschel designations.

19. The method of claim 18, wherein said third and fourth guide bars arethreaded with yarns comprising bare relatively elastic-yarns. 1

- 20. The methodof claim 19, wherein each yarn of I said third andfourth-:pluralitiesis laid-into primarily one wale of the resultantfabric, and the length of each of said third and fourth pluralities ofyarns fed to the needle bar is sufficiently short so that as the fabricis manufactured portions of each one of said yarns of said third andfourth pluralities, extend towarda wale adjacent to the wale in whichsaidone yarn primarily lies, each said portion passing around two lap portions of a yarn from said first plurality of yarns displacing thoselap portions toward the wale in which said one yarn primarily lies.

21. A method of knitting a warp knit fabric, comprising:

knitting a first set of yarns forming a plurality of courses and walesof stitch loops in a ground fabric construction, with the yarns formingstitch loops in each course and each wale,

and simultaneously laying complementary second and third sets of yarnsinto said ground construction, each respective yarn of said second andthird sets being laid into primarily one respective wale of the groundfabric construction, and the length of each of said second and thirdsets of yarns laid-into the fabric being sufficiently short so thatportions of each one of the yarns of said second and third sets extendin the same directions, but in different courses between sets, toward awale adjacent to the wale in which said one yarn primarily lies, eachsaid portion passing around two lap portions of a yarn from said firstset of yarns, which lap portions extend in a direction away from saidwale in which the inlaid yarn primarily lies, and displacing those lapportions toward the wale in which said one yarn primarily lies.

22. The method of claim 21, wherein said ground fabric construction isadditionally formed by knitting together said first set of yarns withstill another set of yarns, additionally forming at least one yarn ofsaid additional set into a stitch loop in each course and each wale ofthe ground fabric construction.

23. The method of claim 21, wherein said second and third sets of yarnscomprises bare, relatively elastic yarns, and said bare, relativelyelastic yarns are substantially covered by the yarns of said first set.

24. The method of claim 22, wherein said second and third sets of yarnscomprise bare, relatively elastic yarns, and said bare, relativelyelastic yarns are substantially covered by the yarns of said first set.

25. The method of claim 23, wherein said relatively elastic yarns areelastically elongated before being laidinto the ground fabricconstruction.

26. The method of claim 22, wherein the fabric is knitted on a warpknitting machine, and said first set of yarns is supplied to theknitting needles of said machine through a front guide bar fullythreaded across an approximate desired fabric width, said another set ofyarns is supplied to said knitting needles through a second guide barfully threaded across said approximate fabric width, said second set ofyarns is supplied to said knitting needles through a third guide barpartially and alternately threaded across said approximate fabric width,said third set of yarns is supplied to said knitting needles through afourth guide bar partially and alternately threaded in an arrangementcomplementary to the arrangement of yarns threaded through said thirdguide bar, and operating said machine so that the front and second guidebars feed yarns to the needles according to the bar movement patterns:

front bar: 2-(), 2-4

second bar: 2-4, 2-0 said patterns being given in Raschel designations.

27. The method of claim 26, additionally comprising operating said thirdand fourth guide bars to feed yarns to the needles, in synchronizationwith the bar move- 16 mcnt patterns of said front and second bars,according to the bar movement patterns;

third bar: 4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 0-0

fourth bar: 4-4, 0-0, 4-4, 2-2 said patterns being given in Rascheldesignations.

28. The method of claim 26, additionally comprising operating said thirdand fourth guide bars to feed yarns to the needles, in synchronizationwith the bar movement patterns of said front and second bars, accordingto the bar movement patterns:

third bar: 4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 0-0

fourth bar: 4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 0-0, 4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 2-2 said patterns beinggiven in Raschel designations.

29. The method of claim 26, wherein the arrangements in which saidsecond and third sets of yarns are threaded through said third andfourth guide bars, respectively, is such that at least one yarn of saidsecond set alternates with at least one yarn of said third set acrosssaid approximate fabric width as said second and third sets are laidinto the ground construction.

30. The method of claim 29, wherein said second and said third sets ofyarns comprise bare, relatively elastic yarns.

31. The method of claim 30, wherein said relatively elastic yarns areelastically elongated before being supplied through a guide bar.

32. The method of claim 21, wherein only one yarn is laid into each waleof the fabric.

33. The method of claim 26, wherein only one yarn is laid into each waleof the fabric.

34. The warp knit fabric of claim 1, wherein only one of the yarns laidinto the fabric lies in each wale of the fabric.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE CERTIFICATE OF CORRECTION Patent No. 3,92.2, 888 Dated December 2, 1975 Inventor s) Thomas E. Patterson It iscertified that error appears in the above-identified patent and thatsaid Letters Patent are hereby corrected as shown below:

Column 1, line 11, the word "yarsn" should read --yarns-.

Column 2, line 7, the Word "effect should read --effects--. Column 3,line 26, the Word is" should read --in--.

Column 6, line 32, the word "illustrated" which appears after FIG. 9"should read --'11lustrate-.

Column 8, line 17, the Word "than should read --that--.

Column 8, line 50, after "machine", insert --having--.

Column 11, line 58, the word "yarns" should read --yarn--.

Column 12, line 45, the word "is" should read --in--.

Signed and Sealed this Ninth, Day of November 1976 [SEAL] Arrest:

RUTH c. MASON c. MARSHALL DANN Arresting ()j'j'iver (mnmissimu'rujlarems and Trademarks

1. A warp knit fabric comprising a first set of yarns forming a knitground structure containing stitch loops in every course and wale, andsecond and third sets of yarns laid into the ground structure; eachrespective yarns of said second set primarily lying in one respectivewale of the ground structure and periodically extending toward anadjacent wale, passing around at least two lap portions of one of theyarns of the ground structure, which lap portions otherwise extend indirections away fromthe portion of the yarn of the second set whichextends toward the adjacent wale, and displacing those laps toward thewale in which the yarn of said second set is primarily lying; eachrespective yarn of said third set primarily lying in a respective waleof the ground structure and periodically extending toward an adjacentwale, passing around at least two lap portions of one of the yarns ofthe ground structure, which lap portions otherwise extend in directionsaway from the portion of the yarn of the third set which extends towardthe adjacent wale, and displacing those laps toward the wale in whichthe yarn of said third set is primarily lying; the yarns of the secondand third sets making all their periodic extensions in the samedirection, but with the yarns of the third set making their periodicextensions in different courses from the courses in which the yarns ofthe second set make their periodic extensions; said second and thirdsets of yarns being substantially covered by the yarns of the groundstructure, and said fabric having a surface effect on at least one facethereof which appears to extend along line oblique to the course andwale directions in the fabric.
 2. The warp knit fabric of claim 1,wherein the stitch loops of yarn on the technical face of the fabricwhich join the two laps which are displaced by each of the extendingportions of the laid-in yarns, are more oblique with respect to thedirections of the wales than the other stitch loops which comprise saidwales.
 2. fully threading a second guide bar of said warp knittingmachine across said approximate desired fabric width with a secondplurality of yarns;
 2. fully threading a second guide bar of said warpknitting machine across said approximate desired fabric width with asecond plurality of yarns;
 3. partially threading a third guide bar ofsaid warp knitting machine alternately across said approximate desiredfabric width with a third plurality of yarns;
 3. partially threading athird guide bar of said warp knitting machine alternately across saidapproximate desired fabric width with a third plurality of yarns;
 3. Thewarp knit fabric of claim 1, wherein the yarns of said second set areprimarily laid into different wales from the wales in which the yarns ofsaid third set are primarily laid-in.
 4. The warp knit fabric of claim2, wherein a surface effect which appears to extend generally alonglines oblique to the course and wale directions in said fabric appearson both faces of the fabric.
 4. partially threading a fourth guide barof said warp knitting machine across said approximate desired fabricwidth alternately in an arrangement complementary to the arrangement ofyarns threaded through said third guide bar; and
 4. partially threadinga fourth guide bar of said warp knitting machine across said approximatedesired fabric width alternately in an arrangement complementary to thearrangement of yarns threaded through said third guide bar; and 5.operating said warp knitting machine, said guide bars feeding yarns tothe needle bar of said machine according to the combination of barmovement patterns: front bar: 2-0, 2-4 second bar: 2-4, 2-0 third bar:4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 0-0 fourth bar: 4-4, 0-0, 4-4, 2-2 said patterns beinggiven in Raschel designations.
 5. operating said warp knitting machine,said guide bars feeding yarns to the needle bar of said machineaccording to the combination of bar movement patterns: front bar: 2-0,2-4 second bar: 2-4, 2-0 third bar: 4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 2-2, 4-4,0-0, fourth bar: 4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 0-0, 4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 2-2, said patternsbeing given in Raschel designations.
 5. The warp knit fabric of claim 1,wherein the yarns of said second and third sets alternate across thecourse-wise width of the fabric in such a way that at least one yarn ofsaid second set alternates across the width of the fabric with at leastone yarn of said third set.
 6. The warp knit fabric of claim 1, whereinthe yarns of said second and third sets alternate across the course-wisewidth of the fabric in such a way that more than one yarn of said secondset alternates across the width of the fabric with more than one yarn ofsaid third set.
 7. The warp knit fabric of claim 1, wherein the groundstructure additionally comprises another set of yarns, which knit isevery course on every wale in said ground structure.
 8. The warp knitfabric of Claim 1, wherein the laid-in yarns of said second and thirdsets comprise relatively elastic yarns, and said fabric is elastic. 9.The warp knit fabric of claim 8, wherein said relatively elastic yarnscomprise spandex yarns.
 10. The warp knit fabric of claim 7, wherein insaid ground structure comprises said first set of yarns knit in thefabric in the pattern: 2-0, 2-4, and said another set of yarns knit inthe fabric in the pattern: 2-4, 2-0, said patterns being given inRaschel designations.
 11. The warp knit fabric of claim 6, wherein theyarns of said second set of yarns are laid-into the fabric in thepattern: 4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 0-0, and the yarns of said third set arelaid-into the fabric in the pattern: 4-4, 0-0, 4-4, 2-2, said patternsbeing given in Raschel designations.
 12. The warp knit fabric of claim6, wherein the yarns of said second set of yarns are laid-into thefabric in the pattern: 4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 0-0, and theyarns of said third set are laid-into the fabric in the pattern 4-4,2-2, 4-4, 0-0, 4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 2-2, said patterns being given in Rascheldesignations.
 13. The warp knit fabric of claim 10, wherein the yarns ofsaid second and third sets alternate across the coursewise width of thefabric in such a way that at least one yarn of said second setalternates across the width of the fabric with at least one yarn of saidthird set, and the yarns of said second set of yarns are laid-into thefabric in the pattern: 4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 0-0, and the yarns of said thirdset are laid-into the fabric in the pattern: 4-4, 0-0, 4-4, 2-2, saidpatterns being given in Raschel designations.
 14. The warp knit fabricof claim 10, wherein the yarns of said second and third sets alternateacross the coursewise width of the fabric in such a way that at leastone yarn of said second set alternates across the width of the fabricwith at least one yarn of said third set, and the yarns of said secondset of yarns are laid-into the fabric in the pattern: 4-4, 2-2, 4-4,2-2, 4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 0-0, and the yarns of said third set are laid-intothe fabric in the pattern 4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 0-0, 4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 2-2, saidpatterns being given in Raschel designations.
 15. A method ofmanufacturing a warp knitted fabric, comprising the steps of:
 16. Themethod of claim 15, wherein said third and fourth guide bars arethreaded with yarns comprising bare relatively elastic yarns.
 17. Themethod of claim 15, wherein each yarn of said third and fourthpluralities is laid-into primarily one wale of the resultant fabric, andthe length of each of said third and fourth pluralities of yarns fed tothe needle bar is sufficiently short so that as the fabric ismanufactured portions of each one of said yarns of said third and fourthpluralities extend toward a wale adjacent to the wale in which said oneyarn primarily lies, each said portion passing around two lap portionsof a yarn from said first plurality of yarns, displacing those lapportions toward the wale in which said one yarn primarily lies.
 18. Amethod of manufacturing a warp knitted fabric, comprising the steps of:19. The method of claim 18, wherein said third and fourth guide bars arethreaded with yarns comprising bare relatively elastic yarns.
 20. Themethod of claim 19, wherein each yarn of said third and fourthpluralities is laid-into primarily one wale of the resultant fabric, andthe length of each of said third and fourth pluralities of yarns fed tothe needle bar is sufficiently short so that as the fabric ismanufactured portions of each one of said yarns of said third and fourthpluralities extend toward a wale adjacent to the wale in which said oneyarn primarily lies, each said portion passing around two lap portionsof a yarn from said first plurality of yarns displacing those lapportions toward the wale in which said one yarn primarily lies.
 21. Amethod of knitting a warp knit fabric, comprising: knitting a first setof yarns forming a plurality of courses and wales of stitch loops in aground fabric construction, with the yarns forming stitch loops in eachcourse and each wale, and simultaneously laying complementary second andthird sets of yarns into said ground construction, each respective yarnof said second and third sets being laid into primarily one respectivewale of the ground fabric construction, and the length of each of saidsecond and third sets of yarns laid-into the fabric being sufficientlyshort so that portions of each one of the yarns of said second and thirdsets extend in the same directions, but in different courses betweensets, toward a wale adjacent to the wale in which said one yarnprimarily lies, each said portion passing around two lap portions of ayarn from said first set of yarns, which lap portions extend in adirection away from said wale in which the inlaid yarn primarily lies,and displacing those lap portions toward the wale in which said one yarnprimarily lies.
 22. The method of claim 21, wherein said ground fabricconstruction is additionally formed by knitting together said first setof yarns with still another set of yarns, additionally forming at leastone yarn of said additional set into a stitch loop in each course andeach wale of the ground fabric construction.
 23. The method of claim 21,wherein said second and third sets of yarns comprises bare, relativelyelastic yarns, and said bare, relatively elastic yarns are substantiallycovered by the yarns of said first set.
 24. The method of claim 22,wherein said second and third sets of yarns comprise bare, relativelyelastic yarns, and said bare, relatively elastic yarns are substantiallycovered by the yarns of said first set.
 25. The method of claim 23,wherein said relatively elastic yarns are elastically elongated beforebeing laid-into the ground fabric conStruction.
 26. The method of claim22, wherein the fabric is knitted on a warp knitting machine, and saidfirst set of yarns is supplied to the knitting needles of said machinethrough a front guide bar fully threaded across an approximate desiredfabric width, said another set of yarns is supplied to said knittingneedles through a second guide bar fully threaded across saidapproximate fabric width, said second set of yarns is supplied to saidknitting needles through a third guide bar partially and alternatelythreaded across said approximate fabric width, said third set of yarnsis supplied to said knitting needles through a fourth guide barpartially and alternately threaded in an arrangement complementary tothe arrangement of yarns threaded through said third guide bar, andoperating said machine so that the front and second guide bars feedyarns to the needles according to the bar movement patterns: front bar:2-0, 2-4 second bar: 2-4, 2-0 said patterns being given in Rascheldesignations.
 27. The method of claim 26, additionally comprisingoperating said third and fourth guide bars to feed yarns to the needles,in synchronization with the bar movement patterns of said front andsecond bars, according to the bar movement patterns: third bar: 4-4,2-2, 4-4, 0-0 fourth bar: 4-4, 0-0, 4-4, 2-2 said patterns being givenin Raschel designations.
 28. The method of claim 26, additionallycomprising operating said third and fourth guide bars to feed yarns tothe needles, in synchronization with the bar movement patterns of saidfront and second bars, according to the bar movement patterns: thirdbar: 4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 0-0 fourth bar: 4-4, 2-2, 4-4,0-0, 4-4, 2-2, 4-4, 2-2 said patterns being given in Rascheldesignations.
 29. The method of claim 26, wherein the arrangements inwhich said second and third sets of yarns are threaded through saidthird and fourth guide bars, respectively, is such that at least oneyarn of said second set alternates with at least one yarn of said thirdset across said approximate fabric width as said second and third setsare laid into the ground construction.
 30. The method of claim 29,wherein said second and said third sets of yarns comprise bare,relatively elastic yarns.
 31. The method of claim 30, wherein saidrelatively elastic yarns are elastically elongated before being suppliedthrough a guide bar.
 32. The method of claim 21, wherein only one yarnis laid into each wale of the fabric.
 33. The method of claim 26,wherein only one yarn is laid into each wale of the fabric.
 34. The warpknit fabric of claim 1, wherein only one of the yarns laid into thefabric lies in each wale of the fabric.